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Trip Report: A Scenic and Celebratory Journey Through Puglia, Italy

Scenic rooftop terrace at Masseria Borgo Ritella overlooking the olive tree-studded countryside and coastline of Puglia, Italy.

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After three unforgettable days in Positano, we made our way east across Italy to the sun-drenched region of Puglia. What brought us to this lesser-known corner of the country was something incredibly special. One of Ally’s best friends was getting married, and we were lucky enough to be part of the celebration. Of course, while the wedding was the reason we came to Italy, we also made sure to carve out plenty of time to explore on our own.

A woman in a navy dress with white floral details stands on large coastal rocks near the waterfront in Monopoli, Italy, with a sailboat and historic stone buildings in the background.
A medieval stone tower of a historic castle in Monopoli, Italy, with the city’s green-and-white flag waving atop against a soft blue sky.

This trip combined everything we love about travel: breathtaking landscapes, rich culture, incredible food, and meaningful moments with the people we care about.  Over the course of a week, we explored the seaside town of Monopoli, and visited the UNESCO heritage sites of Alberobello and Matera. We relaxed at a countryside masseria and experienced one of the most beautiful weddings that we’ve ever attended. This post breaks down our 7-day itinerary through Puglia, Italy, highlighting the scenic towns, hidden gems, and personal memories that made this trip so unforgettable.

Day 1: Arriving in Monopoli and First Impressions of Puglia, Italy 

After beginning our trip in Positano, we made our way to Monopoli to kick off the next leg of our Italian adventure. Here, we checked into Hotel Palazzo Indelli, a four-star boutique hotel in the heart of the Old Town. The location was ideal, just steps from the sea and surrounded by winding cobblestone streets, historic buildings, and local boutiques. Monopoli felt relaxed, authentic, and wonderfully untouristed compared to some of Italy’s more famous destinations. Its relaxed pace, walkable streets, and welcoming atmosphere made it an ideal place to start exploring Puglia, Italy.

Charming alley in Monopoli, Italy featuring flower-filled balconies and decorative arches in the old town.
Worn stone facade with ornate balconies in Monopoli’s historic old town, showcasing classic Puglian architecture.

That evening, we met up with friends who were also in town for the wedding and grabbed drinks at Atipico. Sitting outdoors with a view of the sea, we toasted the start of our Puglian adventure. The wine was great, the breeze off the water was refreshing, and the atmosphere was buzzing with energy. Ally and I were also relieved to find that the prices in Monopoli were a fraction of what we had paid in Positano.

Friends enjoying wine and cocktails in a lively courtyard bar in Monopoli, Italy on a summer evening.

For dinner, our group headed to La Locanda sul Porto. Unfortunately, the food and service were underwhelming, but the patio seating and good company made up for it. After dinner, we met the soon-to-be bride and groom at Vini e Panini for another round of drinks. Not quite ready to call it a night, we capped things off at Alchemico Bar e Cose, one of the few late-night spots open in Monopoli. It was the perfect first night: low key, joyful, and full of good people.

Four women celebrating with cocktails at Alchemico Bar e Cose in Monopoli, capturing the energy of Italian nightlife.
Bartender carefully crafting a cocktail at Alchemico Bar e Cose, a popular nightlife spot in Monopoli, Italy.

Day 2: Beach Club Bliss and Exploring Monopoli’s Old Town

After a late night out, Ally and I had a slow start to the day. We left Palazzo Indelli in the late morning and grabbed a quick sandwich and pastry from a local shop in town. Later that morning, we reconnected with our friends and decided to check out the nearby Lido Cala Paradiso, a relaxed beach club that was walkable from our hotel. We spent the afternoon swimming, sunbathing, and recharging under beach umbrellas. For lunch, we grabbed pizza and caprese salads from the club’s beachside bar and cooled off with cold drinks. It was exactly the kind of easygoing summer day that makes Italian vacations so memorable.

Sun loungers and umbrellas set up on the golden sand at Lido Cala Paradiso beach club in Monopoli, Puglia.
Swimmers enjoying the turquoise waters and rocky shoreline at Lido Cala Paradiso, a scenic beach club in Monopoli, Italy.

Later in the afternoon, we walked back to our hotel, stopping at  Il Capriccio for gelato on the way. After a hot day in the sun, it was exactly what we needed. Later that evening, after freshening up, Ally and I headed out again to explore Monopoli’s Old Town. We wandered the city’s winding alleys in the golden hour light, admiring the beautiful stone architecture of the historic buildings. The Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia was particularly striking. As the sun set, we strolled along the seafront past the Castello di Carlo V and Monopoli’s Old Port.

Towering bell tower of Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia in Monopoli glowing in golden hour light.
Couple standing along the scenic waterfront promenade in Monopoli’s historic old town in Puglia, Italy.

Dinner that night was at Antica Posta, a unique restaurant located inside a historic stone building that once served as a traveler’s post station. The atmosphere was intimate, and the service was a big step up from the night before. Ally and I tried a variety of dishes: lobster linguine, spaghetti all’assassina, and a perfectly cooked filet. The food was delicious and the espresso martini was also a 10/10, the best we had in Italy.

Plate of lobster pasta with cherry tomatoes and basil at Antica Posta, a seafood-focused restaurant in Monopoli.
Espresso martini served in a coupe glass at Antica Posta restaurant in Monopoli, Puglia.

Just as our meal was ending, the server brought out fresh plates and a whole sea bass to carve tableside. After a few moments of confusion, one of our friends confessed that he had accidentally ordered fish for the table instead of just for himself. Luckily, the mix-up turned out to be a happy one. The fish was buttery and fresh, and was probably the best we had on our entire Italy trip. As the laughter from dinner lingered, someone suggested a second round of gelato to close out the night. We made our way to Bella Blu Gelateria, because when in Italy, two gelatos a day is always a good idea.

Server carving freshly grilled fish tableside at Antica Posta restaurant in Monopoli, known for its coastal cuisine.
Two gelato cones held up at night in front of Bella Blu Gelateria and a historic clocktower in Monopoli, Italy.

Day 3: Alberobello’s Trullis and Wedding Welcome Party

On our third day in Puglia, we checked out of Hotel Palazzo Indelli and headed out to explore. First, we browsed Monopoli’s shops, picking up some taralli crackers, our favorite Italian snack. We also bought a ceramic pumo di fiore, a traditional Puglian symbol of luck and prosperity, as a souvenir. Next, we made the 30-minute drive inland to the town of Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Alberobello is famous for its trulli, whitewashed stone homes with cone-shaped roofs that look like something from a fairytale. Here, we grabbed lunch at Bagià Alberobello, a casual café in the town center. Ally ordered a caprese salad, I had avocado toast, and we both cooled off with iced cappuccinos.

Panoramic view of Alberobello’s iconic trulli rooftops framed by blooming flowers in Puglia, Italy.
Woman posing on a decorated street in Alberobello, surrounded by vibrant hanging hats and trulli rooftops.

After lunch, we wandered Alberobello’s cobbled streets and visited the Museo del Territorio to learn about the town’s unique history. The origins of the trulli are fascinating. The earliest residents of Alberobello built their homes without mortar so they could be quickly dismantled. This was done to avoid property taxes imposed by the Kingdom of Naples. Today, the preserved trulli make this one of the most distinctive towns in all of Italy.

Woman standing in the doorway of a conical-roofed trullo in Alberobello, one of Puglia’s most unique towns.
Man smiling at a scenic viewpoint overlooking the traditional trulli houses in Alberobello, Italy.

By late afternoon, we made our way to Masseria Borgo Ritella, the countryside estate where the wedding would take place and our home for the next few nights. Tucked into the hills near Fasano, the Masseria is a dreamlike retreat surrounded by olive groves and rolling countryside. This restored farmhouse blends rustic charm with understated luxury. It features whitewashed walls, arched stone passageways, and a pool that looks like it belongs in a postcard.

Elegant whitewashed facade of Masseria Borgo Ritella, a luxury hotel and wedding venue in Puglia, Italy.
Man relaxing in the serene pool at Masseria Borgo Ritella, surrounded by whitewashed architecture and olive trees in Puglia, Italy.

We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging by the Masseria’s stunning pool. As the afternoon went on, more and more of our friends arrived, and excitement continued to build for the wedding festivities ahead. That evening, the entire group boarded a shuttle to La Perla Nera, a local beach club, for a welcome party. There, we enjoyed an open bar, a delicious spread of small plates and charcuterie, and panoramic views of the sun setting over the Adriatic. It was a beautiful and joyful way to kick off the wedding celebrations.

A well-dressed couple enjoys cocktails at golden hour overlooking the Adriatic Sea at La Perla Nera beach club.

Day 4: Handmade Pastas and Heartfelt Toasts

After the party the night prior, Ally and I woke up late, barely making it to the hotel restaurant in time for breakfast. The breakfast spread at Masseria Borgo Ritella was incredible, with fresh pastries, fruit, and made-to-order eggs and bacon. Ally still hasn’t stopped talking about the cherries. After breakfast, we headed back to the pool for a few hours of R&R.

A vibrant plate of fresh fruit, pastries, and focaccia served with a cappuccino at Masseria Borgo Ritella in Puglia.
Minimalist lounge chairs and lemon decor beside the pool at Masseria Borgo Ritella in Puglia.

In the afternoon, we took a cooking class at the hotel restaurant and learned to make orecchiette, the pasta shape most associated with the Puglia region. After shaping the pasta by hand, we relaxed by the pool while our hosts prepared it for us. Once the pastas were ready, we sat down for a casual feast at a beautifully decorated table. We enjoyed our homemade orecchiette prepared three ways: one with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, one with a rich meat sauce, and a vegetarian version with fresh rapini. A couple bottles of orange wine completed the meal and made for the perfect toast to our culinary efforts.

Couple wearing aprons at a cooking class at Masseria Borgo Ritella in Puglia, Italy.
Fresh orecchiette pasta being made by hand during a traditional cooking class in Puglia, Italy.

That evening, the bride and groom hosted a rehearsal dinner at Masseria Borgo Ritella. The rehearsal dinner was a laid-back pizza party complete with an open bar and a surprise gelato cart. As we ate, we listened to heartfelt speeches from the bride and groom’s family and closest friends. After dinner, we called it an early night and headed back to the room to rest up for the big day ahead.

Group of friends dressed in colorful summer outfits posing at a wedding rehearsal dinner at Masseria Borgo Ritella in Puglia.

Day 5: A Perfect Puglian Wedding

Ally and I ate breakfast together at Masseria Borgo Ritella, before going our separate ways for most of the day. As a bridesmaid, she spent the morning getting her hair and makeup done and taking wedding photos around the venue. Meanwhile, I had a massage scheduled at the Masseria’s incredible spa. I spent the rest of the morning laying low, relaxing, and editing photos from earlier in the trip.

Rustic breakfast spread with pastries, cakes, and fruit at Masseria Borgo Ritella in Puglia, Italy.
Relaxed photo editing setup with a Coca-Cola, MacBook, and potted plants on a terrace in Puglia, Italy.

Later that afternoon, all of the wedding guests gathered at Masseria Borgo Ritella’s picturesque outdoor chapel for an intimate ceremony. Framed by olive trees and decorated with white roses and hydrangeas, the setting was romantic and serene. About 100 of the couple’s closest friends and family looked on as they exchanged vows. Since the bride and groom first met in Italian class back in high school, seeing them marry in Italy felt like a truly full-circle moment.

Whitewashed chapel facade with a bell arch and cross at Masseria Borgo Ritella under a clear blue sky in Puglia, Italy.
Couple dressed in formal wedding guest attire posing beside vibrant bougainvillea in southern Italy.

Following the ceremony, cocktail hour took place on the Masseria’s terrace, perched above the hills with a view stretching to the Adriatic Sea. A ten-piece band played as the newlyweds made their grand entrance and continued entertaining guests throughout the hour. Several food stations were set up around the terrace, including one where a chef crafted fresh mozzarella knots to order. The setting, music, and food came together beautifully, with every detail planned to perfection.

Chef preparing fresh mozzarella at a wedding in Italy, with a rustic cheese and antipasti display.
Live band playing by the pool during cocktail hour at a wedding in Puglia, Italy.

For the reception, we moved into a glowing white courtyard adorned with minimalist, all-white decor. Centerpieces made of mounds of sea salt paid tribute to the rustic traditions of the Puglia region. A saxophonist provided bursts of energy between dinner courses, filling the courtyard with live music. After dinner, the bride and groom assembled their traditional Italian wedding cake, Millefoglie, in front of their guests. The cake was light, flaky, and absolutely delicious. We spent the rest of the evening dancing under the stars with friends we’ve known for over 25 years. It was a joyful, unforgettable night.

Couple enjoying the wedding reception at Masseria Borgo Ritella, a romantic venue in Puglia, Italy.
Elegant candlelit table setting with custom menu at a Masseria Borgo Ritella wedding reception.

Day 6: Beach Recovery and One Night in Matera

After one last breakfast, we checked out of Masseria Borgo Ritella and headed to Lido Santo Stefano, a scenic beach club just outside of Monopoli. This was the favorite beach club of the wedding couple, and they had invited their guests to join them there the morning after the wedding. We spent the morning lounging in the sun, sipping cold drinks, and trading stories from the night before. Here, we also discovered caffè crema, a delicious espresso drink that had the consistency of soft serve ice cream.

Scenic cove with a lifeguard pedal boat and stacked paddleboards at Lido Santo Stefano, a hidden gem beach in Puglia, Italy.
Hand holding a crema di caffè cup at Lido Santo Stefano beach club in Monopoli, with umbrellas and sea in the background.

In the early afternoon, Ally and I drove to Matera, where we would spend our final night in Italy. There, we checked into Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa, a property carved into the ancient cave dwellings that Matera is famous for. Despite the rugged exterior, our room had modern touches throughout, and the best shower of our entire trip. Once settled in, we set out to explore the city. 

Modern cave-style bathroom with arched stone ceiling and freestanding tub at Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa in Matera.
Weathered stone steps and iron gate surrounded by lush potted plants on a quiet street in Matera, Italy.

We walked the streets of Matera admiring the stunning views around every corner. Near our hotel, Ally was thrilled to discover a cat colony, with the sweetest cats and tiny kittens. After stopping to pet the cats, we continued exploring Matera’s Old Town and made our way to the Church of Santa Maria de Idris, an iconic stone church built into the cliffside. Next, we grabbed a drink at Zipa Cafè, a cocktail bar with panoramic views of the city and surrounding hills.

Calico kitten lounging in a wooden planter-style structure, soaking up the afternoon sun in a quiet corner of Matera, Italy.
Couple posing at sunset with sweeping views of Matera’s ancient stone buildings and bell tower in the historic old town area.

As the sun began to set, we stopped at a casual restaurant with outdoor seating and enjoyed a bruschetta and an Aperol Spritz. From there, we headed to the Michelin-starred Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante, where we enjoyed a five-course tasting menu for our final dinner in Italy. What made the experience at Vitantonio Lombardo Ristorante unique was its choose-your-own-adventure format. Instead of a fixed tasting, we selected our five courses from a list of thirty or so creative dishes. It was a memorable and delicious finale to an unforgettable trip through Puglia.

Man enjoying an Aperol spritz and bruschetta at an outdoor café in Matera, a charming town in Puglia, Italy.
Creamy burrata risotto with lemon and licorice reduction at Michelin-starred Ristorante Vitantonio Lombardo in Matera.

Day 7: Farewell to Matera and Departure

The next morning, we woke early to walk the quiet streets of Matera one last time, taking in the golden light and quiet charm of the city. After a final breakfast at Aquatio Cave Luxury Hotel & Spa, we packed up our things and drove back to the Naples airport to catch our flight home. We were sad to leave, but felt incredibly grateful for the memories we made and the people we shared them with.

Scenic overlook of Matera’s hilltop cave dwellings and winding roads illuminated by crisp morning sunlight.

Final Thoughts on our Puglia, Italy Itinerary

Puglia surprised us in the best way. It had all the charm and beauty of more well-known Italian destinations, but with fewer crowds and a more relaxed pace. From the winding alleys of Monopoli to the ancient caves of Matera, every stop on our itinerary offered something unique and memorable. Whether we were lounging by the pool at the masseria, rolling pasta by hand, or dancing under the stars at a wedding, the region’s warmth, in both spirit and sunshine, left a lasting impression.

Ornate baroque bell tower in Monopoli’s old town at sunset, showcasing historic southern Italian architecture.
Couple smiling on a whitewashed terrace at Masseria Borgo Ritella in Puglia, with golden hour views of olive groves and countryside in the background.

If you’re planning a trip to Italy and want something a little different from the usual Venice-Florence-Rome route, we can’t recommend Puglia enough. And if you need help planning, we’d love to help! As travel specialists, we can create a personalized itinerary tailored to your interests, style, and budget, so you can spend less time stressing and more time exploring. Reach out to start planning your dream trip today!


Know Before You Go: Puglia, Italy

Man sitting along the scenic waterfront promenade in Monopoli’s historic old town in Puglia, Italy.
Toasting with espresso martinis on the terrace at Masseria Borgo Ritella, with sweeping views of Puglia’s countryside in golden hour light.

What to Pack: Bring light, breathable clothing, comfortable walking shoes, and plenty of sunscreen. If you plan to visit churches or attend a formal event (like a wedding), pack something modest and dressy. A swimsuit and sandals are essential for beach clubs.

Dining Tips: Mealtimes in Puglia tend to be later than you might be used to. Lunch is usually from 1:00–3:00 PM, and dinner often begins after 8:00 PM. Make restaurant reservations when possible, especially at popular spots or if you’re dining with a group.

Cultural Etiquette: Puglia is known for its hospitality. Learn a few basic Italian phrases, greet shop owners when entering, and dress modestly in churches or smaller villages. Tipping is appreciated, but not expected. Rounding up the bill or leaving a few euros is sufficient.

Beach Clubs: Many of Puglia’s best beaches are managed as “lidos,” or beach clubs, with lounge chairs, umbrellas, and on-site restaurants. Arrive early in summer, especially on weekends, and bring cash just in case credit cards aren’t accepted.

Wi-Fi and Connectivity: Wi-Fi is widely available in hotels and many restaurants. If you’re road-tripping or staying in rural areas, consider getting an Italian SIM card or checking your carrier’s international data plan.

Consider travel insurance: Things don’t always go according to plan, especially when traveling overseas. For peace of mind, we recommend purchasing travel insurance that covers trip delays, cancellations, medical emergencies, and lost luggage.


Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Puglia, Italy

Golden light hitting the ancient stone church of Santa Maria de Idris perched atop the cave dwellings in Matera, Italy.

When is the best time to visit Puglia, Italy?
Late spring (May–June) and early fall (September–October) offer ideal weather with fewer tourists. July and August are great for beaches but can be very hot and crowded.

How do you get to Puglia, Italy?
Puglia is best reached via Bari or Brindisi, the region’s two main airports. Both offer flights from major Italian cities and select international hubs. You can also take a high-speed train from Rome or Naples to Bari, and then rent a car to explore the region more freely.

Is Puglia, Italy expensive?
Puglia is more affordable than regions like Tuscany or the Amalfi Coast. Dining, accommodations, and activities often come at a better value, especially outside peak summer months.

Do I need a car in Puglia, Italy?
Renting a car is the best way to explore the region. While some towns are connected by train, a car gives you the flexibility to explore smaller villages, coastal drives, and rural areas that aren’t easily accessible otherwise.

How many days do you need in Puglia, Italy?
We recommend spending at least 5 to 7 days in Puglia to experience the region at a comfortable pace. This allows time for beach days, cultural experiences, and exploration of Puglia’s historic towns.

Is English widely spoken?
In major tourist areas and hotels, yes. In smaller towns and local establishments, having a few basic Italian phrases will go a long way.

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