Our trip to Tromsø, Norway came together quickly, sparked by reports of strong aurora activity in 2024. We had a gap in our schedule in November, and booked a last-minute winter escape above the Arctic Circle. Tromsø, known for its snowy landscapes and Northern Lights sightings, seemed like the perfect place for a spontaneous winter adventure.
Though the aurora stayed mostly hidden behind clouds and snowfall, Tromsø, Norway offered far more than we expected. We spent our days dog sledding, whale watching, soaking in a floating spa, feeding reindeer, and exploring the still beauty of the Arctic. The city invited us to slow down and embrace the rhythm of winter. And, while we didn’t get the full-sky, time-lapse-worthy aurora show we had hoped for, we did get lucky one night. Just as we were ready to give up, a faint green shimmer appeared over the mountains. It was soft, brief, beautiful, and somehow just enough.
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Day 1: Arrival in Tromsø, Norway & Arctic Driving
Tromsø may be remote, but getting there was surprisingly smooth. We broke up the journey with a long overnight layover in Amsterdam. This gave us time for a quick canal tour and a bit of exploration before continuing our journey north. The next morning, we continued on to Northern Norway and arrived in Tromsø just before noon. As soon as we stepped off the plane, we were greeted by towering mountains, deep snow, and an otherworldly kind of quiet. With several feet of snow already on the ground and only a few hours of twilight each day, we knew we were in for a very different kind of winter adventure.
After picking up our rental car at the airport (thankfully equipped with winter tires), we carefully made our way into town. The roads were covered in a thick layer of compacted snow and ice, but we found driving manageable with a little confidence. However, if you’re not comfortable driving in winter conditions, don’t worry. Tromsø is very accessible without a car. Local buses run often and cover the airport, city center, tour pickups, and even the cable car. Most excursions also include transportation, and the downtown area is compact and walkable.
After settling into our Airbnb, we bundled up and walked to the harbor to explore. The town felt quiet but charming, with snow-dusted rooftops and a peaceful waterfront. For dinner, we ate at The Social Bar & Bistro, located inside the Clarion Hotel The Edge. The vibe was cozy and modern, with a warm view of the wintry harbor. I ordered a hearty pasta dish, while Ally had a fresh salad. It was a simple but satisfying way to end our first day in the Arctic.
Day 2: Whale Watching on Arctic Waters
We kicked off our Arctic adventure with a full-day whale watching tour aboard Brim Explorer’s hybrid-electric catamaran. The boat departs from Tromsø harbor and takes about two hours each way to reach the open sea, where whale sightings are most likely. Be prepared for a long, scenic day on the water, and be sure to bring motion sickness remedies if needed. Once we left the fjords, the seas were rough enough that our boat completely ran out of barf bags! Fortunately, Ally and I fared just fine and spent the ride enjoying drinks and snacks from the onboard café. The atmosphere was relaxed and social, and we enjoyed chatting with the crew. Many of them had moved to Tromsø from across Europe, and their stories about adapting to life in the Arctic added a personal touch to the experience.
What makes this tour stand out is the boat itself. Powered in part by electric motors, the boat moves quietly across the water, allowing close and respectful encounters with wildlife. Our group was lucky enough to see multiple orcas during the tour. Watching them rise from the water beneath the soft Arctic light was nothing short of magical. And, with only a few hours of twilight each day (9 AM to 2 PM), every glowing moment felt precious.
As we returned to Tromsø, snow began to fall and the last light of day faded into complete darkness. After warming up, we headed to La Famiglia, a casual Italian restaurant just a short walk from the harbor. It wasn’t fancy, but the food was exactly what we needed. We ordered two pasta dishes to refuel and shared a glass of wine while reminiscing on the day’s highlights. The meal was cozy, satisfying, and the perfect end to a long, cold day.
Day 3: Spa Day & City Strolls
On day three, we slowed things down with a much-needed dose of warmth and relaxation at Vulkana Spa. This converted fishing boat now serves as a floating wellness retreat, docked right in Tromsø Harbor. Here, we rotated between the wood-fired sauna and the steamy outdoor hot tub, while snow fell gently around us. For the bold, there is also the option to jump straight into the icy harbor. Naturally, we gave it a try. We took turns jumping from the boat before scrambling back up the ladder to the warmth of the hot tub. This experience was freezing and intense, but absolutely exhilarating.
The spa usually plays ambient or jazz music, but we struck up a conversation with the staff member on duty and quickly bonded over our shared music tastes. He offered to switch the soundtrack to his personal playlist, and we gladly accepted. His mix of laid-back hip-hop and R&B featured artists like Drake, as well as some local Norwegian favorites. There’s truly nothing like sitting in a steaming hot tub in the Arctic while “Passionfruit” plays in the background.
After the spa, we took some time to wander around Tromsø’s city center. Despite the early sunset, the streets were lively and well-lit with twinkling lights and cozy storefronts. We stopped at Sweet Heart, a Scandinavian candy shop stocked with bins of gummies, licorice, and nostalgic treats. Ally was especially excited to find a wide variety of the Swedish candies that she had seen on TikTok. Later in the evening, we grabbed dinner at Casa Inferno, a cozy pizza spot downtown. The food was delicious and the perfect way to end our low-key day.
Day 4: Dog Sledding Through Arctic Wilderness
If you’re going to splurge on one activity in Tromsø, dog sledding should be at the top of your list. We booked a tour with Aurora Alps, located about an hour outside the city in the snow-covered valley of Breivikeidet, and it ended up being one of the most unforgettable parts of our trip. The day began with a scenic bus ride from Tromsø to the Aurora Alps basecamp. Once there, we were outfitted in thermal overalls, boots, mittens, and hats. This gear kept us warm while sledding and saved us from smelling like huskies after all the cuddles later on!
The dogs were waiting for us, and they were beyond excited. Barking, howling, and jumping in place, they were clearly ready to run. We were told to wait until after the ride to give them attention, since they were so full of energy. Once the sleds were ready, we hit the trail. The silence of the Arctic was incredible. All we could hear was the sound of paws on snow and sled runners gliding along the trail. The route passed through wide valleys blanketed in snow, with mountains rising all around us.
Midway through the ride, Ally and I switched spots so we each had turns driving and riding as a passenger. Standing on the back and steering the huskies felt like flying across the snow. Sitting up front, bundled in blankets, gave us a front-row view of the stunning landscape around us. After the ride, the huskies were eager for affection and attention. They were as sweet and friendly as you could hope. We ended the day inside a warm lavvu, a traditional Sámi tent, sipping hot drinks by the fire.
Back in Tromsø that night, we treated ourselves to dinner at Emma’s Drømmekjøkken. This warm and intimate restaurant is known for classic Norwegian dishes with a refined twist. Highlights here included the gnocchi and the Norwegian cheese platter. After a day of huskies and snow-covered valleys, it was the perfect place to relax and reflect.
Looking to add dog sledding to your Tromsø itinerary? You can browse similar tours available through GetYourGuide here. Many include transportation, thermal gear, and the opportunity to drive your own dog sled!
Day 5: City Views, History, and a Northern Lights Surprise
On day five, we took the opportunity to slow down and soak up more of what Tromsø itself has to offer. We started the morning with café-hopping and breakfast at Risø Mat Og Kaffebar. From there, we took the bus across the bridge to the Fjellheisen Cable Car. The ride carried us to a panoramic viewpoint high above the city. We timed our visit just right, arriving just before twilight hours ended. This allowed us to see the town both in soft daylight and as the streetlights flickered on. The view was stunning, with snow-covered rooftops, winding fjords, and mountains stretching out in every direction.
Back in town, we stopped at the Polar Museum, housed in an old customs building near the harbor. Inside, we learned about Tromsø’s role as a gateway to the Arctic. The exhibits focused on explorers, trappers, and the harsh realities of survival in the far north. It gave us a new appreciation for how extreme and unique life here can be. Next, we grabbed an early dinner at Burgr, a video game-themed burger joint. We ended the night at Ølhallen, Tromsø’s oldest pub and a favorite among locals. The bar features dozens of taps pouring local beers, including some from Mack Brewery, the world’s northernmost brewery. The vibe was rustic and relaxed, perfect for warming up with a pint of two.
Later that evening, back at our hotel, we checked the sky one last time. This time, luck was finally on our side. The faint but distinct shimmer of the Northern Lights appeared just above the mountains, visible from our balcony. It wasn’t the brightest display, but it was enough to feel the wonder. We stood in the cold, quietly watching the sky, grateful for the moment.
Day 6: Sommarøy Day Trip & Reindeer Experience
After a week of cloud cover and snowfall, we finally woke to clear skies. We decided to make the most of it with a road trip to Sommarøy, 90 minutes west of Tromsø. This small fishing village is known for its colorful houses, rocky coastline, and white-sand beaches. The drive was breathtaking, with empty roads winding through snowy mountains and frozen lakes.
Because of the clear skies, we were treated to an all-day “sunset” of pastel skies that looked like they were pulled from a watercolor painting. This gave the entire day a magical, otherworldly feel, and made for some amazing photos! On the way back to Tromsø, we spotted wild reindeer walking calmly along the roadside. They were calm and quiet and seemed completely unfazed by our presence. It was a quiet, beautiful moment that made the Arctic feel even more special.
That evening, we joined Tromsø Arctic Reindeer for a cultural experience just outside the city. We began by feeding a herd of reindeer under the soft glow of floodlights. The animals were gentle, curious, and surprisingly relaxed around visitors. Afterward, we gathered inside a lavvu, a traditional Sámi tent, to warm up by the fire. There, we enjoyed a three-course meal featuring bidos, a Sámi reindeer stew made with carrots and potatoes. If eating the animal you just fed isn’t your thing, a vegetarian option was also available. The evening ended with storytelling from our Sámi hosts, who shared personal reflections, cultural history, and their connection to the land and animals. It was an intimate and respectful glimpse into a way of life often overlooked, and a fitting end to our final night in Tromsø.
Day 7: Farewell to the Arctic
We spent our final morning in Tromsø wandering the harbor one last time. Snow covered the streets, and the quiet stillness felt familiar. After a week of Arctic adventures, it was hard to believe our time here had come to an end. As we boarded our flight and watched the white landscape disappear beneath the clouds, we felt both gratitude and wonder. While we hadn’t quite gotten the Northern Lights experience we originally hoped for, Tromsø had surprised us in the best ways and left us with memories we will carry for a long time.
Know Before You Go: Tips for Visiting Tromsø, Norway in Winter
Pack Smart for Arctic Conditions
Tromsø’s winter weather is no joke. Dress in warm, moisture-wicking layers—think thermal base layers, wool sweaters, insulated jackets, waterproof boots, and plenty of accessories like gloves, hats, and scarves. Hand warmers are great for tours that keep you outside for long stretches.
Be Flexible with Northern Lights Expectations
Even during periods with strong solar activity, weather plays a huge role. Cloud cover and snowstorms can block the view completely. Booking a guided aurora tour can still be worthwhile—guides stay in constant communication with each other throughout the night, helping them quickly navigate to areas with clearer skies or stronger aurora activity. That said, it’s also smart to leave some nights open to simply check the sky yourself from town. Some of the best aurora moments happen when you least expect them.
Prepare for Limited Daylight
Daylight hours in Tromsø vary dramatically depending on the time of year. In December, you’ll only get a few hours of soft twilight each day—typically between 9 AM and 2 PM—while in January and February, daylight gradually returns. If you’re visiting in winter, plan outdoor activities around the light and embrace the long, cozy evenings. Be sure to double-check sunrise and sunset times for your specific travel dates so you can schedule tours and sightseeing accordingly.
Watch Out for Motion Sickness
If you’re planning a whale watching tour, be prepared: the seas can be very rough once you leave the shelter of the fjords. We recommend bringing seasickness medication or wearing motion sickness bands, even if you don’t usually get sick.
Driving is Manageable, but Optional
Roads are covered in packed snow and ice, not cleared down to asphalt. If you’re confident driving in winter conditions, renting a car gives you freedom to explore. Otherwise, Tromsø has excellent public transportation, taxis, and plenty of tours with pickup options.
Book Popular Tours Early
Whale watching, dog sledding, reindeer feeding, and Northern Lights excursions are incredibly popular during Tromsø’s peak winter season (November through February) and often sell out months in advance. Tours involving animals—like dog sledding and reindeer experiences—tend to book out even faster because there are limited numbers of animals and small group sizes. If these activities are on your must-do list, it’s smart to reserve your spots well before your trip.
Embrace the Unexpected
Tromsø’s Arctic weather is unpredictable, especially in winter—and that’s part of what makes it so special. Heavy snow, cloudy skies, and changing conditions can sometimes shift your plans, but they also create opportunities for different kinds of adventures. Even when the Northern Lights stayed hidden, we found that some of our favorite memories came from simply leaning into the season and making the most of each snowy day.
Final Thoughts
Tromsø in winter is raw, beautiful, and unpredictable—and that’s exactly what makes it unforgettable.
We may not have gotten the brilliant Northern Lights displays we originally hoped for, but the city had so much more to offer: endless snowy landscapes, cozy Arctic nights, once-in-a-lifetime experiences, and a quiet sense of magic that’s hard to put into words.
Sometimes the best trips aren’t the ones that go according to plan. They’re the ones where you learn to embrace the snow, chase new adventures, and find beauty in the unexpected.
If you’re dreaming of an Arctic escape filled with wild landscapes, winter wonder, and just the right amount of adventure, Tromsø is absolutely worth the journey.
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